Ste. Genevieve, Mo.

Ste. Genevieve is 50 miles downriver from St. Louis. The boundaries between river and land here are less distinct, sometime reaching into swampy bayous.

Ste. Genevieve was founded by the French in 1735 and many of the original Creole structures remain.

What also remains is an undeniable joie de vivre. A troupe of children that sings French folk songs is ready to perform at every opportunity, as is a Dixieland band. I found a young shopkeeper selling jewelry, accompanied by her pet Polish chicken. I found a likable bunch of adolescent boys on bikes begging to be photographed. A Cajun band played at a Saturday night street dance and even in the rain, townspeople of all ages turned out to dance. Even the horses seemed high-spirited!

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